The day began like most Sunday's, moaning that the weekend was over, that i had not caught up with work stuff as much as planned and it would be a tough week as a result. So the first part of the morning was spent trying to catch up with emails, going over my schedule for the week and stuff like that. The surprise of the day was my newest project team (cash for work for widows) had planned a lunch for the entire HAWA team and invited representatives from all program's and departments. Probably the first time something like that was being done. Our office has more than 800 national staff and 16 expats, so its rare to meet across programs and departments for just a get together, except an annual event which Lex and Sunmaya host (our Country Director and his wife).
Inspite of implementation challenges and the like, am thankful every day for the great team I have. I dont say that because of the lunch and like :), but because they really do work like a team, which from what I hear from colleagues in other organisations, is a rariety here. They happily put in extra hours, take on extra work, things that one took for granted back home but is a challenge for most teams here.
Its a pleasure to work with such a dedicated group who pushes and inspires me to improve myself constantly too.
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Jugharoos in kabul: January 2010
For the Jugharoo’s. Oh, the comfort, the inexpressible comfort of feeling safe with a person; having neither to weigh thoughts nor measure words, but to pour them all out, just as they are, chaff and grain together, knowing that a faithful hand will take and sift them, keep what is worth keeping, and then, with a breath of kindness, blow the rest away. George Eliot (Mary Ann Evans)
Here's to more travels together, to fun and silliness !
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Annual Pilgrimage to Salang: Year 2
This year too I got to go to Salang again and indulge in my obsession with snow, snow fights and all. Thanks to Kebar, Humayoun and Shahwali who indulge me, friends who make life is Kabul special. I dont think I can thank you guys enough for putting up with me, pampering me, you have spolit me now :)
The day started with Shahwali and me loading up the two car's, making sure the radios were working and then picking up the other two gentlemen. Sharif and Ustad were the two drivers who took us there and bore with the snow ball fights that started on the streets but continued in the vehicle (more on that a bit further down).
The first stop once outside Kabul was in Humayoun's village called Kalakand (no it isnt named after the Indian sweet), where we bought some Kangina, grapes preserved for the winter in a covering made of mud and straw. Once Humayoun had finished with the selection we were on our way again. Food, snow and snow fights were the recurring themes of the day.
Kebar's wife had prepared the most delicious boloni (the afghan version of the paratha), which is saying something considering the quantities and varities I have eaten in my time here. These were gandana and kaccha aloo mixed with chillies (gandana aka leek, kaccha aloo aka Potatoes). The Punjabi's and Afghan's have a lot in common, especially their love for food.We also crossed Kebar's village called Totomdara, supposed to be a Hindu inspired name, a lot of the land there is owned by Hindu's.
The first town we crossed was Char e Kar, where Care has a sub office and the education program is implementing community based education for girls. The second one was Jabal Siraj where I saw the Afghan version's of jughad's. In Rajasthan (which is probably my home town now, I never know how to respond to the question which part of India do you come from?) we have Jughad's as the main form of transportation in rural areas, the engine is the motor used in wells and a wooden plank for seating, highly decorated in different styles depending on the region. I found a variation here where intead of a motor of a well, its a motorcycle converted into a jughad or auto (as its called here). The journey is beautiful when you have the Hindu Kush range on both sides, making it a beautiful road trip.
The rest of the day went dodging snow balls, being almost buried in the snow a few times, clearning roofs of snow, picknicking besides a stream, sitting on our shawls. Both Kebar and Humayoun are quite brutal with their jang -e- barf. All in all a fun filled day with instructions for me to find a husband who lives where there is constant snow and since I was playing Babul by Shobha Mudgal an ironsmith or loohar.
I can never get enough Boloni, especially my favourite version- leek and potato with chillies.
The Salang Valley
Me with Humayoun on the left, Kebar on the right and then Shahwali
The journey back into Kabul was tinged with sadness, I was already missing the snow and thinking about when I would get to see it again. The road had been blocked by a comapany of American troops in their Humvees and tanks. Everyone who was with me would not let me take pictures of the scene saying that I could be shot at for something like that, questions asked later. Brought back the issue of how foreign troops are viewed and what actually goes on in the name of security.
This is only one that I took before my friends stopped me. I counted atleast 40 of these and am sure, missed quite a few.
The first stop once outside Kabul was in Humayoun's village called Kalakand (no it isnt named after the Indian sweet), where we bought some Kangina, grapes preserved for the winter in a covering made of mud and straw. Once Humayoun had finished with the selection we were on our way again. Food, snow and snow fights were the recurring themes of the day.
The first town we crossed was Char e Kar, where Care has a sub office and the education program is implementing community based education for girls. The second one was Jabal Siraj where I saw the Afghan version's of jughad's. In Rajasthan (which is probably my home town now, I never know how to respond to the question which part of India do you come from?) we have Jughad's as the main form of transportation in rural areas, the engine is the motor used in wells and a wooden plank for seating, highly decorated in different styles depending on the region. I found a variation here where intead of a motor of a well, its a motorcycle converted into a jughad or auto (as its called here). The journey is beautiful when you have the Hindu Kush range on both sides, making it a beautiful road trip.
The rest of the day went dodging snow balls, being almost buried in the snow a few times, clearning roofs of snow, picknicking besides a stream, sitting on our shawls. Both Kebar and Humayoun are quite brutal with their jang -e- barf. All in all a fun filled day with instructions for me to find a husband who lives where there is constant snow and since I was playing Babul by Shobha Mudgal an ironsmith or loohar.
I can never get enough Boloni, especially my favourite version- leek and potato with chillies.
The Salang Valley
Me with Humayoun on the left, Kebar on the right and then Shahwali
Our Picnic Spot, next to stream, sitting for boloni and chai on our shawls
The journey back into Kabul was tinged with sadness, I was already missing the snow and thinking about when I would get to see it again. The road had been blocked by a comapany of American troops in their Humvees and tanks. Everyone who was with me would not let me take pictures of the scene saying that I could be shot at for something like that, questions asked later. Brought back the issue of how foreign troops are viewed and what actually goes on in the name of security.
This is only one that I took before my friends stopped me. I counted atleast 40 of these and am sure, missed quite a few.
The weekend began well
The weekend is finally here, its usually spent hanging out with friends, brunches, lunches, dinners, fun and sometimes exercise (HASH variety). For the uninitiated HASH or the Hash House Harriers is a group that exsits all over the world, basically for walks, runs, drinking and merry making. Last week was my first and till now only Kabul HASH walk (my main motivation for going inspite of the horror stories i have heard about the chavinism that exists in the group). more on that if I go next.
Back to this weekend. It started with a house warming party of Johnny (our security advisor) and Peter (our vocational training project manager)home. The boys had done a great job doing the place up and it had a pub/lounge feel to it. The usual suspects of girls hung out there with some interesting experiences. it started with three of us going into the kitchen to find a place to eat, as all the other space was taken. When an interesting young man took in his own words the first bold step of saying hi to us. As he himself said he was looking to score (which is so common in the kabul party scene that we girls have taken to safety in numbers). He in his highly inebriated state provided some light enterainment for us, after that exchange, he will probably not even been bold enough next time to make the first move by saying Hi. Though he did seem to indicate that in his usual state of inebriation he doesnt care even if he gets a kick in the A**.
From there the three of us moved over to lydia's house, which is next door. where we continued for a while.
Then dawned Jumma morning, the day when its permissable to sleep in :). I had two brunch options and was woken up by manadana's call at 11 asking me where the hell i was (politely). Spent the early part of the afternoon with her, Martina and a few other at flower street Cafe, its seems girls only time is the only thing i am capable of these days.
The afternoon was spent wandering around the shops of chicken street with Lydia and for a brief bit with vasu. I have been haunted by this baluchi carpet for six months, finally gave in and bought it. Made my year!
The day ended with the Jugharoo's (vasu, terry and me) having dinner with a few friends at my place. a lovely evening with some inspiring and entertaining people(terry had a story for everything)
Back to this weekend. It started with a house warming party of Johnny (our security advisor) and Peter (our vocational training project manager)home. The boys had done a great job doing the place up and it had a pub/lounge feel to it. The usual suspects of girls hung out there with some interesting experiences. it started with three of us going into the kitchen to find a place to eat, as all the other space was taken. When an interesting young man took in his own words the first bold step of saying hi to us. As he himself said he was looking to score (which is so common in the kabul party scene that we girls have taken to safety in numbers). He in his highly inebriated state provided some light enterainment for us, after that exchange, he will probably not even been bold enough next time to make the first move by saying Hi. Though he did seem to indicate that in his usual state of inebriation he doesnt care even if he gets a kick in the A**.
From there the three of us moved over to lydia's house, which is next door. where we continued for a while.
Then dawned Jumma morning, the day when its permissable to sleep in :). I had two brunch options and was woken up by manadana's call at 11 asking me where the hell i was (politely). Spent the early part of the afternoon with her, Martina and a few other at flower street Cafe, its seems girls only time is the only thing i am capable of these days.
The afternoon was spent wandering around the shops of chicken street with Lydia and for a brief bit with vasu. I have been haunted by this baluchi carpet for six months, finally gave in and bought it. Made my year!
The day ended with the Jugharoo's (vasu, terry and me) having dinner with a few friends at my place. a lovely evening with some inspiring and entertaining people(terry had a story for everything)
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Afghan Voices: A video produced by CARE for the london conferance
http://www.careinternational.org.uk/13104/feature-articles/video-afghan-voices.html
CARE produced this video for the london conferance that is happening today. CARE's way of ensure that voices of ordinary afghan's is also heard. Please do see it, just 15 minutes. Some of my program participants were also interviewed for it.
CARE produced this video for the london conferance that is happening today. CARE's way of ensure that voices of ordinary afghan's is also heard. Please do see it, just 15 minutes. Some of my program participants were also interviewed for it.
Barfi (not quite what the Indian's would have in mind when they hear that word)
It finally snowed in kabul, such joy, had a stupid grin on my face all morning. Then the barfi playing started, something that i had completly forgotten about, even though i really got it from the team last year too and the grin became broader :). Firstly, barfi is a tradition in afghanistan (or is it only kabul) that takes place on the first day of a proper snow fall. This is what I have understood it to be: friends/family/colleagues place Baraf or snow within something (which in office today was largely envelopes), you need to hand it over to another person and run (not get caught). the baraf is placed with a list of demands, things like a lunch treat, etc. If the other person got this without you getting caught, that person is the barfi. On the other hand if you get caught, the other person needs to put a black mark on you somewhere, then you are the barfi. Did that make sense?
Its much fun, if done early enough in the day and with a straight face (kind of hard to do if you have been running all over the office either making people barfi or escaping being made one.
It started with the CARE Finance Controller coming to my office while i was having a staff meeting, placing a very offical looking package in my hand and then fleeing, which for a brief moment, I thought was odd, until my team screamed Barfi and that's when I remembered what it was about. I ofcourse gave chance with as much dignity as i could muster (considering i was leaving a staff meeting) but could not catch up.
Just 20 minutes later (thankfully the meeting was over by then) another team mate came in very innocently (which for the brat he is, is a feat in itself and should have put me on my guard) and showed me a medicine box and asked me to tell him what it was. Inside ofcourse was the barfi, this time I decided not to give chance but accept being made barfi gracefully as giving chance would have meant navigating some oddly placed office furniture.
This is when i decided it was time to give it back. So I got another team mate involved and we prepared our packages and marched to the main office in the snow and the sleet but without any falls this time.
I started with our Emergency coordinator (Latifi sahib), who thankfully was in a meeting when I went to his room with my package and hence did not give chance, the same happened with our ACD Program support (Kebar). Though by then most of the CARE staff and the senior management (expats) had seen me and a colleague running in and out of offices for a while, I hope its not going to be an issues in my performance appraisal. So, When i tried the same with our education coordinator (Wahid), I forgot that he had been a football player, he manged to corner me in the office corridor and place a black mark on me. I now owe him a lunch. I did however, succeed with our two other program coordinators and sprinted back to the safety of my office. There was ofcourse much laughter and fun for all those witnessing these actions.
All in all a fun morning. Dont think that my working days are normally spent like this, today was an exception in honour of the first day of the snow where a bit of fun, frivolity and time off are acceptable.
Could not take any pictures though, wish I had (maybe next winter, if i am still in Afghanistan).
Its much fun, if done early enough in the day and with a straight face (kind of hard to do if you have been running all over the office either making people barfi or escaping being made one.
It started with the CARE Finance Controller coming to my office while i was having a staff meeting, placing a very offical looking package in my hand and then fleeing, which for a brief moment, I thought was odd, until my team screamed Barfi and that's when I remembered what it was about. I ofcourse gave chance with as much dignity as i could muster (considering i was leaving a staff meeting) but could not catch up.
Just 20 minutes later (thankfully the meeting was over by then) another team mate came in very innocently (which for the brat he is, is a feat in itself and should have put me on my guard) and showed me a medicine box and asked me to tell him what it was. Inside ofcourse was the barfi, this time I decided not to give chance but accept being made barfi gracefully as giving chance would have meant navigating some oddly placed office furniture.
This is when i decided it was time to give it back. So I got another team mate involved and we prepared our packages and marched to the main office in the snow and the sleet but without any falls this time.
I started with our Emergency coordinator (Latifi sahib), who thankfully was in a meeting when I went to his room with my package and hence did not give chance, the same happened with our ACD Program support (Kebar). Though by then most of the CARE staff and the senior management (expats) had seen me and a colleague running in and out of offices for a while, I hope its not going to be an issues in my performance appraisal. So, When i tried the same with our education coordinator (Wahid), I forgot that he had been a football player, he manged to corner me in the office corridor and place a black mark on me. I now owe him a lunch. I did however, succeed with our two other program coordinators and sprinted back to the safety of my office. There was ofcourse much laughter and fun for all those witnessing these actions.
All in all a fun morning. Dont think that my working days are normally spent like this, today was an exception in honour of the first day of the snow where a bit of fun, frivolity and time off are acceptable.
Could not take any pictures though, wish I had (maybe next winter, if i am still in Afghanistan).
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
The fall
I was thrilled to leave home this morning and go to office, it was finally raining (leaving home at 7.20 in the morning in winter is not my favourite part of the day normally). Which meant that one hasnt given up hope on the weather/winter and that meant the drought we were fearing might not happen.
My office is across the street from the main office, which means every time i have a meeting i have to walk over,cross the street, jump over the ditch, walk next to the dug up ditch to the end of the street, i normally love that. Today though the walk took on another dimension. I was called over to discuss the women's day plans with our security and ofcourse in my enthusisam rushed out and promptly slipped and feel into the mud (atleast i hope that it was only mud, which in kabul is never a given). There were atleast 10 guards from diffrent agencies around with their guns and i think i was their entertainment for the day. these were ofcourse mostly the EU and the attorney genral's guards, the ex-mujhadeen brigade. They had a good laugh and I ofcourse was mortified. Am now hesistant to go back onto the streets, not for the usual kabul reasons of fear of kidnapping, etc.
To add insult to injury, i walk into the main office with my jeans all muddy (i hope only muddy), my shoes ruined, a bit bruised to find almost the entire staff near the reception in a condolence meeting and what do i do, promptly slip again.
Not one of my better coordinated days!
Thanks to Lex, ted and lydia for all the help cleaning me up.
My office is across the street from the main office, which means every time i have a meeting i have to walk over,cross the street, jump over the ditch, walk next to the dug up ditch to the end of the street, i normally love that. Today though the walk took on another dimension. I was called over to discuss the women's day plans with our security and ofcourse in my enthusisam rushed out and promptly slipped and feel into the mud (atleast i hope that it was only mud, which in kabul is never a given). There were atleast 10 guards from diffrent agencies around with their guns and i think i was their entertainment for the day. these were ofcourse mostly the EU and the attorney genral's guards, the ex-mujhadeen brigade. They had a good laugh and I ofcourse was mortified. Am now hesistant to go back onto the streets, not for the usual kabul reasons of fear of kidnapping, etc.
To add insult to injury, i walk into the main office with my jeans all muddy (i hope only muddy), my shoes ruined, a bit bruised to find almost the entire staff near the reception in a condolence meeting and what do i do, promptly slip again.
Not one of my better coordinated days!
Thanks to Lex, ted and lydia for all the help cleaning me up.
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Istalif
Istalif village is a little less than two hour’s drive from Kabul, near the Shomali Plains. Its known for its pottery, the colours used are mostly royal blue and deep turquoise. The merchandise ranges from bowls and plates, jugs and teacups and saucers. The view from the top of the village is stunning; you can see the shomali plains. You can see and feel the ruin created by the years of war this country has seen.
My first trip was with my room mate and our respective bosses. ML jan or Mari- Louise was leaving Afghanistan after 3 years and this was one of the last things she wanted to do. Ted and Nick our respective bosses, were new in the country and for one of them it was first time outside of Kabul.
We spent a few hours in the small street that has around 15 stores, browsing and chatting with some of the old men. ML jan speaks fluent dari and me with my broken Dari did a lot of shopping.
The afternoon was spent besides the lake in a chai khana, relaxing, having kebab’s and naan with lots of green tea.
For me the first impression was of the fresh air, away from the dust and garbage of Kabul, I felt that I was relearning how to breathe again. One doesn’t realise how much the Kabul air affects you till you leave it.
It was a beautiful spring day and hope to go back once again this year.
Buzkashi in kabul
A Buzkashi match between the panjsheer and kabul team. A team sport played on horseback. the rider grabs the goat from the ground at a full gallop and needs to take it to the goal line or circle. the goat is beheaded and disemboweled. its a game often compared to polo. A few of us went a few days before christmas'09 to see this match. A few pictures.
Give it to me
Here we go again
the audience
Where is the goat?
Give it to me
Here we go again
the audience
Where is the goat?
Jugharoos in kabul
A picture taken of the three jugharoo's outside my home in kabul in October'09. The tentatively named jugharoo traveling club comprises of 5 members (two Srilankans, one Indian, one American and one New Zealander- age span from 25 to 63)who happened to be in India around the same time, and dicovered their shared passion for silliness and travelling. So started the club somewhere in 2003/4 with the years filled with friendship, travel, adventures, discoveries and ofcourse silliness. More about TTNJTC or jugharoos to follow.
Movie Nights
Our personal theatre, since there isnt a cinema hall that we can go out. Having movie nights at home during the winter is a much needed recreation
one of the widow's group centre
This is one of the mosques's or taqiyakhana where the widow's association groups holds it's meetings. The mullah ocassionally accompanies the women when they go meet families for mediation
A member of the widow's association
Dont you just love her face, she is one the members of our widows associations, who mananged to negotiate with the local mullah to get space in the mosque to hold meetings with widows on women's rights.
Kabul Girls
Some of the Kabul girls who bring strength to me on tough days and add joy to the good ones
My Girls
This is for all the women who have been part of my life here. I would not have survived any of this without you. joy, grief, sharing, bonding, whining, bitching, celebrating, adventures, learning, exploring its all been possible because of you.
To begin with my HAWA team. You are am amazing group of women (and some men)who have held my hand as I began my afghanistan journey and been my teachers and mentors in the journey that HAWA has taken over the last 20 months and the way the program has evolved in the recent past.
I have learnt so much about life, life in afghanistan, friendship, solidarity, courage and so many other things from you. Proud and honoured to be part of this team.
This was a picture taken at Bagh-E- Barber where CARE organised a women's eid celebration and for the first time i had almost all the 160+ women who are part of my team there in one physical space to just celebrate. A day in the sun, with lovely conversations, music (when it worked) and food.
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