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Saturday, January 30, 2010

Annual Pilgrimage to Salang: Year 2

This year too I got to go to Salang again and indulge in my obsession with snow, snow fights and all. Thanks to Kebar, Humayoun and Shahwali who indulge me, friends who make life is Kabul special. I dont think I can thank you guys enough for putting up with me, pampering me, you have spolit me now :)


The day started with Shahwali and me loading up the two car's, making sure the radios were working and then picking up the other two gentlemen. Sharif and Ustad were the two drivers who took us there and bore with the snow ball fights that started on the streets but continued in the vehicle (more on that a bit further down).

The first stop once outside Kabul was in Humayoun's village called Kalakand (no it isnt named after the Indian sweet), where we bought some Kangina, grapes preserved for the winter in a covering made of mud and straw. Once Humayoun had finished with the selection we were on our way again. Food, snow and snow fights were the recurring themes of the day.

Kebar's wife had prepared the most delicious boloni (the afghan version of the paratha), which is saying something considering the quantities and varities I have eaten in my time here. These were gandana and kaccha aloo mixed with chillies (gandana aka leek, kaccha aloo aka Potatoes). The Punjabi's and Afghan's have a lot in common, especially their love for food.We also crossed Kebar's village called Totomdara, supposed to be a Hindu inspired name, a lot of the land there is owned by Hindu's.

The first town we crossed was Char e Kar, where Care has a sub office and the education program is implementing community based education for girls. The second one was Jabal Siraj where I saw the Afghan version's of jughad's. In Rajasthan (which is probably my home town now, I never know how to respond to the question which part of India do you come from?) we have Jughad's as the main form of transportation in rural areas, the engine is the motor used in wells and a wooden plank for seating, highly decorated in different styles depending on the region. I found a variation here where intead of a motor of a well, its a motorcycle converted into a jughad or auto (as its called here). The journey is beautiful when you have the Hindu Kush range on both sides, making it a beautiful road trip.



The rest of the day went dodging snow balls, being almost buried in the snow a few times, clearning roofs of snow, picknicking  besides a stream, sitting on our shawls. Both Kebar and Humayoun are quite brutal with their jang -e- barf. All in all a fun filled day with instructions for me to find a husband who lives where there is constant snow and since I was playing Babul by Shobha Mudgal an ironsmith or loohar.



I can never get enough Boloni, especially my favourite version- leek and potato with chillies.



The Salang Valley




Me with Humayoun on the left, Kebar on the right and then Shahwali





Our Picnic Spot, next to stream, sitting for boloni and chai on our shawls




The journey back into Kabul was tinged with sadness,  I was already missing the snow and thinking about when I would get to see it again. The road had been blocked by a comapany of American troops in their Humvees and tanks. Everyone who was with me would not let me take pictures of the scene saying that I could be shot at for something like that, questions asked later. Brought back the issue of how foreign troops are viewed and what actually goes on in the name of security.

This is only one that I took before my friends stopped me. I counted atleast 40 of these and am sure, missed quite a few.

1 comment:

  1. Similar sentiments mon ami as I crossed exactly this terrain a few weeks before you, albeit on work, and minus the bolani and snowfights...humvees...A MENACE...the snow - captivating! Here's to a second home - yours for sure and mine...hopefully!!! : )

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